Some
Skin Benefits and Advantages of All Natural Cosmetics (skin care
and hair care):
The skin absorbs at least 60% of what you put on it.
According to the Environmental Working Group, most of
the ingredients used in cosmetics have not been evaluated by the
FDA (the FDA only regulates some colors and really toxic
ingredients like mercury in cosmetics). EWG’s cosmetic
database (see below) is a great resource where
you can look up cosmetic ingredients and a wide range of
products to assess their safety. Though many synthetic
ingredients used in small amounts are non-toxic, in large
amounts many are known to be potentially irritating or toxic,
and it is generally unknown what the long term effects of using
small amounts of these ingredients every day for years can have
on human health.
As a long time crafter I can tell you that most of the
non-natural ingredients used in cosmetics (with the exception of
synthetic lab derived actives) are either fillers, emulsifiers,
texturizers (used to improve the texture of the product),
fragrances, or synthetic preservatives: all designed to make the
product look and smell good but do little for the skin. In my
opinion, none of these ingredients, with the exception of the
preservatives*, are necessary since they do little to improve
the health of your skin (there are many natural ingredients that
can be used as emulsifiers, fragrances, and texturizers, most of
which also provide skin benefits).
(*Note
about preservatives: for your own safety, preservatives must be
used in products that contain water such as creams and lotions.
However, I personally choose not to use most synthetic
preservatives because many of them are potentially toxic and
irritating. There are only a couple synthetic
preservatives that I would actually use on my skin, but I prefer
using natural preservatives. Please see below for more
information on synthetic versus natural preservatives.)
Many natural ingredients are healing for the skin, since they
contain numerous vitamins and nutrients. They can improve the
health of the skin (if the product is properly formulated) and
actually nourish the skin (the skin can absorb the nutrients).
Natural cosmetics usually contain much higher amounts of actives
than conventional products (no fillers!).
Many synthetic ingredients can cause skin allergies or skin
conditions. Some of the symptoms I had when I became allergic
to many conventional ingredients and products eight years ago
include breathing problems (from synthetic perfumes), hives,
acne, and headaches. But if you are allergic to a
particular plant please do not use it on your skin, as allergies
to plant and natural ingredients are also possible. Be sure to
do skin allergy tests on the inner elbow with any new (natural
or synthetic) ingredient or cosmetic you use.
If
you use aromatherapy and herbal products, they may help heal
skin conditions (such as rashes), and have some medicinal and
psychological uses* (such as helping soothe depression and
anxiety) and spiritual properties. Be sure to research
ingredients well before use.
(*Note: Please see the "A Few
Things to Consider..." section for more information about plant
medicinal uses.)
Some Ecological and Social Advantages of All
Natural Cosmetics:
They are
100% biodegradable, so no toxins down your drain and into the
watershed (many other species are sensitive to many synthetic
chemicals, which in some severe cases--such as the usage of
synthetic chemicals that mimic estrogen--can cause mutations in
certain species).
Products and ingredients that are organic* support good farming
practices, and are much more sustainable in the long run. Using
organic, cultivated without chemicals (ingredients that are
usually organic but not certified yet), or ethically
wild-harvested goods also reduces the use of toxic pesticides.
(*Note: Just because something is natural does not necessarily
mean it's organic).
Using products made with ethically wild-harvested and fair trade
ingredients* ensures that ingredients are produced in a
sustainable manner, and that other cultures and the Earth are
not exploited in the process. Some companies also work closely
with the communities that produce the goods. When done in a
non-exploitive manner it supports the local economy, often
generates income for women and people in poverty, and in some
cases may help conserve local natural resources.
(*Note: Be
sure to check the credentials of fair trade or ethically
wild-harvested products to make sure they are truly fair trade
or ethically wild-harvested).
Many truly natural cosmetics are made by small companies,
stay-at-home moms, or are women-owned. By buying products from
these companies you are supporting small businesses, families,
and women in business.
Some natural companies donate part of their proceeds to
environmental or social organizations.
A
few businesses are owned by herbalists and aromatherapists, who
not only have a deep respect of the Earth, but who are also
active in educating the public on plant conservation issues
(which is often a neglected conservation topic). Many people
don't realize that some of the most active environmentalists and
conservationists are those in non-traditional plant related
fields like herbalism or aromatherapy.
Do
not underestimate the power of 'buying green'! By buying green
you are letting different industries (such as those in business
and politics) know that you want and support eco-friendly
alternatives. More and more companies and organizations are
beginning to implement greener practices (while some businesses
are doing this for environmental reasons, others are doing this
because they know if they don't, in the future they will lose
money because more and more people are interested in buying only
eco-friendly products). The organic and natural industries are
rapidly growing; many businesses are jumping onto the green
bandwagon (be wary of 'green washing'). In my thesis research
the majority of people in my community stated that if a
politician or political party supported conservation policies,
they would view that politician or political party more
favorably (and presumably vote for them). Many politicians know
this. Your views and what you do matter and can greatly
influence people and events!
Many people (including me) view using natural plant ingredients
as a spiritual journey tied closely to the Earth. In many
cultures and religions around the world (past and present), the
medicinal, cosmetic, food, and spiritual uses of plants are
connected to each other. It wasn't that long ago that this was
also true in many contemporary mainstream western societies as
well.
A Few
Things To Consider When Buying All Natural Cosmetics:
Though I advocate buying all natural cosmetics, it is always
better to consume less or only buy what you need. Choose
quality over quantity.
Everyone has a different definition of what 'natural' is. Be
sure to research ingredients well before use (there are a lot of
borderline natural/synthetic substances that some people
consider natural and others consider semi-natural/naturally
derived or synthetic). Just because a label says it's natural
or organic doesn't mean it is. For organic cosmetics, only
products with the USDA NOP organic seal are truly organic. For
cosmetics, unlike food products*, the word ‘organic’ is
currently not regulated by the USDA. The USDA only
regulates cosmetics products that have undergone certification
and carry the USDA seal, and does not regulate cosmetic products
that have not undergone certification. Also, there is no
regulation of the word natural. Cosmetic products that are not
natural or organic can legally place those words on their
product--even if their product only contains only 1 drop of
natural or organic ingredients!
(*Note: In food products, the
word ‘organic’ is regulated by the USDA.)
In
addition to cosmetic uses, herbs and herbal products (such as
essential oils) also have many medicinal uses. Aromatherapy and
herbalism are not regulated by the government. In the United
States, aromatherapists and herbalists cannot legally practice
medicine (under the law), however, they often act as consultants
to many different industries. Be sure to research herbs,
essential oils, hydrosols, and other plant ingredients well
before use. If you are pregnant, an elder, using conventional
medicine, or want to use herbs and essential oils on children,
please do extra research (as many essential oils and herbs can
not be used on these people, and some herbs and essential oils
may interact with conventional medicine. Ask an aromatherapist
or herbalist that focuses on these subjects and a
conventional nurse or doctor before use. Some nurses are also
aromatherapists or herbalists in the U.S.
(On a related note:
In France, most aromatherapists are medical doctors).
100% natural products have a much shorter shelf life than
conventional products
(usually 3 months to a year depending on the product and what is
used to preserve them. Powdered mineral makeup will last much
longer, nearly indefinitely). Don't stock up on 100% natural
products, and also be sure to use them quickly. If you tend to
take a long time to use products up (longer than a few months),
try buying a smaller size or a sample (many small vendors offer
samples or smaller sizes since you often can't return products
from small online vendors), or you may want to consider using a
product with synthetic preservatives (natural products preserved
with a synthetic preservative will have a life shelf of at least
a year if not longer). Though I personally choose not to use
synthetic preservatives in most of the products I buy (since I
prefer using completely natural products and many synthetic
preservatives are potentially irritating or toxic), I usually
use products up within a couple months of purchase. I
especially want to emphasize that while many natural
preservatives have extremely effective anti-bacterial and/or
antiseptic properties (and some are antiviral and antifungal
as well), they don't preserve products for as long as
synthetic preservatives do. Natural preservatives are
generally non-toxic if used in the correct proportions and many
also provide skin benefits, so it's a trade-off.
Preservatives (whether natural or synthetic) are extremely
important ingredients to use in cosmetics. In general,
waterless products (like balms and oil based serums) are much
more stable and less prone to bacterial contamination than
products that contain water. Most non-aqueous products may not
need a preservative, but to be on the safe side, I highly
recommend using one. For non-aqueous products, many companies
usually use a blend of natural preservatives (such as essential
oils) and/or antioxidants (like vitamin E). Products with water
in them (such as creams, lotions, and ‘wet’ facial masks) are
extremely perishable and prone to contamination.
Preservatives are a must in water-based products. Make sure
that water-based products have an adequate preservative system.
For all natural creams or other water-based products in jars,
use a clean spatula to spoon out your product (or at least make
sure your fingers are very clean). 100% natural creams and
lotions will only have a shelf life of a few months (in some
cases, shelf life may be slightly longer depending on the
preservatives used, and type of container). Many companies tend
to use a blend of natural preservatives (like herbal extracts
which contain alcohol, essential oils, or alcohol) and
antioxidants (like vitamin E) to extend shelf life and protect
against a wide range of bacteria. But not all natural
preservatives have the same antiseptic ability, and different
herbs will kill different bacteria (and some plant ingredients
make very ineffective preservatives). Antioxidants only extend
shelf life but do not kill or inhibit bacteria. If you choose
to use 100% natural water-based products (preserved with natural
preservatives), for your own safety, be sure to use it within a
couple months of purchase.
It
is not a good idea to store natural cosmetics in the bathroom
(too humid, which will make them spoil faster).
Refrigeration of most natural products (when not in use) will
extend shelf life. For some products the texture may change a
bit in the fridge, however, this will not alter the
effectiveness of the product.
All
natural or nearly all natural products are more expensive* than
drugstore brand cosmetics (but often cheaper than some
department store brands, though there are a few overpriced
natural brands in my opinion). However, since there are no
fillers, you can often use less of a product to get great
results. Also because they are 100% (or nearly all)
natural, the products generally contain more actives in them
than conventional products.
(*Note: About the price of all natural
and nearly all natural products. Natural ingredients usually
cost a lot more than conventional cosmetic ingredients.
And if the ingredients are rare or harder to obtain or if they
are organic, they are even more expensive. For carrier oils, if
they are unrefined, cold or expeller pressed (nutrient rich)
oils they are usually more expensive than refined oils (that are
stripped not only of odor but nutrients). It takes most
conventional cosmetics only pennies to occasionally a couple
bucks to produce their products, while it may take many dollars
to produce a completely natural product (no cheap fillers and
also the much higher cost of ingredients, and in some cases
packaging—colored glass used in many essential oil products
costs more than plastic). An example of the cost of a natural
ingredient, rose essential oil: it takes thirty to sixty
roses to make one drop of rose essential oil, hence the $1-2
per drop price tag (and why most rose scented products on the
market are synthetic).)
If
you are on a budget, just start out with a couple of basic
products, or consider crafting your own cosmetics! Ingredients
from herbal vendors are often cheaper and higher quality than
ingredients found in stores (even with shipping). But if you
can find things locally, I highly suggest buying them (saves on
gas consumption). (But buying locally may be difficult in some
areas, since it is easier to find many herbal ingredients in
certain areas of the country than others.) Many recipes can be
found on the internet, or you can get books at the library (if
books aren’t available at your library, use the library’s
interlibrary loan system), or a used bookstore. Amazon also
sells many natural cosmetic, herbal, and aromatherapy books
usually for up to 30% off. If you sign up for Border's reward
card (in the stores), they send you coupons (through your email)
nearly every week or so (from 10% to 30% off).
Last note: Just because something is natural does not mean it is
safe, and just because something is synthetic does not mean it
is bad. For example, certain essential oils used in high
concentrations are toxic. In addition, I still currently use
rubbing alcohol (91%) as one method to clean and sanitize my
cosmetic glass bottles, which is a pretty safe substance as long
as it's used in a well ventilated room (I also sterilize in the
oven). Lastly, in some products, borderline synthetic/naturally
derived ingredients, or synthetic ingredients may be preferable,
such as using cetyl alcohol as an emulsifier in natural hair
conditioners (since many other emulsifiers like many waxes won't
rinse out of the hair easily), or using synthetic preservatives
in an alcohol free, scent free cream or lotion (to my knowledge
there is no completely natural way to preserve this).
Links
listed above:
Environmental Working
Group - http://www.ewg.org
EWG’s cosmetic database
-
http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/
About The Author:
Li Wong is currently pursuing her second degree in Environmental
Science and taking courses in aromatherapy. She has been
crafting natural products, and learning about aromatherapy and
herbalism since 2001. After graduation she plans to start her
own eco-friendly, natural vegan cosmetic business, and work in
the conservation field.
For more information on
natural cosmetics, aromatherapy, herbalism, and environmental
issues check out: Solarkat’s Eco Blog.
http://solarkateco.blogspot.com/
For
questions or comments about this article, you may leave a
comment on Li's blog or on the
All Natural Beauty Forum (Delphi
username is Snowcat27), or email her at solarkatsecoblog@yahoo.com
Please
visit Li's Eco Blog:
http://solarkateco.blogspot.com/
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